1. Le Bois du Moutiers (Varengeville) – Historic World-Renowned Garden

This ‘jardin’ is truly idyllic. It consists of seven gardens, in enclosed areas (chambres verts – “green rooms” of plants) surrounding the house on the south and east sides. Gertrude Jekyll, their creator, mixed colours and scents together in order to design a unique atmosphere in each of them and she did an incredible job. Each area has a distinct feel so you feel like you are going on some sort of journey. This lady was a formidable designer, having designed over 400 gardens in her life-time in the UK, Europe and the USA, even having a rose named after her.

There is a numbered walk you can follow with little sign-posts all around the gardens, that takes you on a route all the way round so you don’t miss anything. When you enter (and pay an entrance fee) you get a piece of paper with a map which is very useful – and helps to ensure you don’t get lost. There are huge woods surrounding the gardens and at times it can feel quite remote but it makes for a very spacious, quiet, peaceful and serene experience.

We’ve been many times as it is just 5 minutes walk from our house and on the same road (Route d’Eglise). It never fails to impress due the variety of planting, views and seasons. My favourite area has to be the large mature magnolias when they come out in Spring, though during June the roses are magnificent with incredible heady scents everywhere.

Watch out for the seaview which peeps out every so often from behind the forest. The flowers and trees are spectacular at pretty much anytime of the year when Le Bois Du Moutiers is open (from Mar to Oct).

As for the house, which usually is not open to the public, it started out as a ordinary house built around 1850. It was later extended and substantially remodelled in the Arts-and-Crafts style by Edwin Lutyens, a British architect who has been described as “the greatest British architect of the twentieth century.” He and Gertude Jekyll frequently worked on houses and gardens together.

For more information, please click here: on the BBC website and here at the official website (French only).

Highly recommended.

2. Eglise Saint Valery (Varengeville) – Historic Church and Sea Views

Another real highlight of this area is the Eglise Saint Valery on the edge of the cliff in Varengeville at the end of the Route d’Eglise (same road as our house). Featured in Monet’s paintings, it is surrounded by woods and gardens and has incredible views to the east and west of the cliffs and sea. It is a very peaceful and tranquil area and everyone who visits is struck by its unforgettable remote beauty.

Originally built in the 12th century, then enlarged in the 16th century, the building has resisted storms and the assault of the waves that gnaw at the cliffs below.

The chapel part of the church is made iridescent by the peaceful blue colours of the Tree of Jesse, a stained glass window, the work of Georges Braque who died in 1963 and who is buried in the churchyard. The grave has recently been restored and the composer Roussel is also buried here.

Original parts of the church, including artwork is still visible from the 16th century.

Michel Ciry, a local artist who is famous in France recently donated some of his painting so the church which can be viewed at opening times.

A foot-trail leads steeply down to the sea through an incredible rock-lined gorge. Well worth visiting too.

3. The Secret Beach – Petit Ailly (Varengeville)

Yes! There is a beach only known to local people! Some of locals even go fishing here for fresh shrimp. You can walk from our house or take the car. If going by car, take the D75 as though going to Dieppe and pass the Mairie on your right. Turn left into Rue Grange des Conches and then first right. No name for this road but any road to the right will take you onto Rue Hamel Aubin. Once on here turn onto Rue Lemoine and it’s straight all the way to the beach. You reach a gorge right at the end that cuts through the cliffs and there is a small car park. Breath taking views and beautiful sea is now all yours! As mentioned, it is possible to walk this from our house, we did it in about 45 minutes through one of the GR – randonee walks (more on those below). There are a few signs in the woods to keep pointing you in the right direction – but not many. That said, it’s quite hard to get lost as you can see the sea from time to time through the woods. Really worthwhile as it feels so remote, like a lost paradise! Helpful map below to show how to get there from our house or the D75 by car.

4. L’Auberge Du Relais (Varengeville) – Restaurant

A great place to stop for lunch or dinner, this friendly restaurant serves the freshest seafood, as well as many other traditional French fare such as steaks and chips. Great wine list. They also do great children’s menu with good portions. Superb quality for the price and lovely service. Thoroughly recommended. (Just 100 metres from our house). It’s a good idea to book on busy days such as Sundays and during school holidays as it gets very busy. There is a peaceful outside garden to eat in as well. Auberge Du Relais website (French only)

5. Manoir D’Ango (Varengeville) – Historic chateau

The Manoir d’Ango was built between 1530 and 1542 by the rich and famous Dieppe ship-owner, Jehan Ango. He amassed great wealth through ship-building and chartering and went on to become the Viscount of Dieppe. The Manoir d’Ango was his residence and was built by Italian architects and artists. The southern wing of the manor includes a loggia and a gallery with four bays. The upper part of the south wing is decorated with frescoes by 16th century Italian artists.

There’s one of the world’s largest dovecoats on site too. It houses hundreds of doves. Keeping doves used to be a hobby and sign of wealth amongst the rich in the 16th centry.

It’s a very peaceful and spacious place to wonder around. Quite unique in its own way and unlike any old building we’ve been to before.

6. Woodland and seaside walks – (Dieppe, Varengeville, Saint Marguerite and Vasterival)

France is a country full of long-distance footpaths and hiking trails. Varengeville and Dieppe are no exception and make up part of the 100,000 kilometres of paths, crossing the country in all directions. Long-distance footpaths or hiking trails are known in France as “Sentiers de grandé randonnée”.This is abbreviated GR for the main routes of this national network followed by a number. GR routes are marked (on trees, posts, stones, etc) by a short red band above a white band. Check out this link for some local walks around Varengeville and this link for a big variety of walks around Dieppe and beyond. I’ve put in a picture of boots by the sea here, but we’ve done loads of walks just in our trainers, so no need to get all serious about gear if you don’t want to!

7. The local Mairie (Varengeville) – The local town hall

Not only can you pick up information about anything going on locally while you stay in Varengeville, there is also almost always some sort of exhibition by a local artist going on as well at the Mairie. Recently the local council has introduced some prize stock rams on the land they own next door.  They are worth a visit just to see their horns and amazing woolly coats! The best website to check local happenings at the townhall as well as locally generally is Varengeville Mairie Facebook page.

8. Musee Michel Ciry – (Varengeville) – Art Gallery Museum

This art museum dedicated to Michel Ciry is a very modern, light and bright affair. Beautifully spacious and inviting, you can see the incredible repetoire and skill of this artist. Come and view watercolours, oils, drawings and etches of his still life, landscape and portraits. Born in 1919, his is still alive and still regularly paints, writes and composes music. An extraordinary living artistic legend, not to be missed!

Open from Spring to Autumn and open just on weekends in October please check for dates and entry fees here: Michel Ciry Museum.

9. Maison Boivin – (Varengeville) – Patisserie & Traiteur

Delicious patisserie awaits you at Maison Boivin, along the main high street in Varengeville. Open every day except Mondays, there’s nearly always a queue in the morning and on special days like Easter Sunday the queue stretches right down the road.

Over the years we’ve had amazing cakes such as eclairs, milles feuilles, rhum au babas and other incredible confections I have no idea how to pronounce or name!

Don’t forget too the lovely savouries available here too which are a great option for a light lunch. We’ve sampled quiches, feuilettes and croques and a few other things besides and always found them ‘parfait’! We never tire of going back here and we strongly recommend this place.

COASTAL TOWNS AROUND DIEPPE

There are some beautiful towns with lovely beaches dotted all the way along the coast around Dieppe. Mostly they are pebbles up above with sand down below close to the water. Many of them have little playgrounds and/or crazy golf and mostly they have at least one restaurant or snack stations (and toilets!) Well worth visiting them all as each one has a different unique sort of charm and you’ll know the one that suits you best when you visit!

Here’s a map of all of them and I’ll cover the ones closest to Dieppe (one of them already covered up above which is the secret beach (no sign-posts!)

10. Plage de Dieppe

The beach along Dieppe is very long and fronted by a many tall hotels. On a first look, Dieppe can seem a bit faded in places and I thought after our first visit that would be our last. But it really is a hidden treasure and there are plenty of fascinating, enjoyable and exciting things to do, you just need to search them out. (Lots of detail on Dieppe below).

Along this plage you’ll find a skateboard park (great if you have teenagers), crazy golf, an amazing indoor and outdoor swimming pool complex and spa and many restaurants to eat at within the hotel-lined boulevard. And that’s just along the beach, there’s loads more to do in the town. Plenty of parking by the beach here too though it does get busy in high season. In the summer there are frequently funfair stalls and rides all along the shore as well as other activities. Bike hire available along here too.

There’s also an amazing kite festival in mid September every year here. It’s an international affair and draws a big crowd.

11. Quiberville-sur-Mer

Quiberville is a small village on the seafront just a few minutes drive from our house and about 10 minutes from Dieppe. There is a snack station in the summer and a lovely little playground. We love this beach, it’s very quiet and the parking is easy along the road. There are also public toilets and some little changing huts. There are also two sailing clubs where you can hire kayaks as well as take a week long sailing course. Here are links from the local Quiberville website to all sorts of things such as fishing, horse-riding and local bike hire at City Plage. A great place to explore.

12. St Marguerite & Vasterival

Another somewhat hidden beach, take the D75 (sea road) and turn to Vasterival which is sign-posted. Go past the Hotel de la Terrace and you will come to a small car park. After that there is a footpath that leads to the beach and some quite steep steps. Well worth it though as the sight is something to behold with some incredible white cliffs behind you, that form part of the Alabaster Coast or Cote d’Albatre as it is known locally. Check here for some really useful data on beaches generally in France, this website lists all beaches and whether dogs can go, if there is parking and so on and even gives pictures of what the beaches look like. Fantastique!

These beaches on the Normandy coast feel so wild and free and frequently there are only a very few people there. If you’re looking to get away from it all in the most beautiful surroundings, then this really has it in (bucket and) spades!

13. Pourville Sur Mer

Pourville-Sur-Mer is the closest beach to Dieppe at 5 minutes and a 5 minute drive from our house too. It’s a lovely beach. Even in high summer, it rarely seems to get busy. There are a few shops along the sealine and it’s easy to park at the car park. We’ve enjoyed eating at the cafe/restaurant along the sea-road selling nice lunch fare as well as meruignes and patisserie but also newspapers and a few other bits and bobs such as beach toys and suncream.

There’s also a lovely restaurant called Les Regates which has some outside seating and serves great food on the seafront. Yes we’ve eaten here too! Great seafood as you would expect.

If you love oysters, there’s a fresh oyster shop or ‘L’Huiterie’ that is very highly-spoken of by the locals. There is some outside seating here too.

For things to do there is of course the beach but also a small playground for the children as well as ice-creams at the local shop and some crazy golf as well on the sea-front. Great place to spend a few hours and when it’s hot enough a dip in the sea is wonderful.

14. Veules Les Roses

This charming town is a favourite with all our guests that come to stay. There’s something special about Veules les Rose. Perhaps it’s the sweet little river running down towards the sea, the quaint and pretty houses or the interesting winding streets that bring you out at the stunning shorefront. I don’t know what it is but it’s somewhere we love to visit again and again, no matter what the season.

By the sea there are a handful of restaurants, all equally good and plenty back in the main town too. There is a shallow swimming pool on the walkway by the sea which is great if you have children although plenty of adults splashing around too when we visited. There’s also a nice playground for kids as well as some mini sailing vessels to hire out such as catamarans for anyone feeling adventurous.

15. Plage de Criel sur Mer (and Le Treport)

Both beaches are further away from Dieppe, around a 30 to 45 minute drive. We loved Criel Sur Mer, a quite spread out village with a lovely Mairie and beautiful river again running down to the sea. Our little girl loved feeding the ducks at the river by the Mairie. There are loads of them so bring lots of bread (or more duck-friendly food if you feel inclined).

You’ll find the Forest of Eu over here as well as the town of Eu which is lovely to stop by and have a look around. It also has a chateau, very impressive. Le Treport we found less interesting and a bit too commercial and feeling run-down. It was a few years ago now that we went so perhaps it has changed but we much preferred Criel and also close by Mesnil Val which also had a beach. The forest in Eu is very remote and we had some good walks and picnics up in the hills there. Not great sign-posting though so we literally parked the car and just found a trail and started walking. We bought a map but we did try our best not to get lost – and succeeded. Thankfully.

16. Plage de Fecamp, Etretat & St-Valery-En-Caux

Again a 45 to 90 minutes drive away from Dieppe, these towns are definitely worth visiting. The top photo is Etretat with its breath-taking cliffs and ‘needle’ and ‘doorway’ standing out in the sea. Mesmerising. Saint Valery-En-Caux has again a small swimming pool by the sea and is a harbour for many personal boats which a makes for a delightfully colourful sight.

Things to do in Dieppe

There are endless possibilities in Dieppe and numerous good restaurants so it makes coming back very easy as there’s always something new to do.

17. Quai Henri IV Restaurants (Dieppe) – Restaurants

Along this quayside you’ll find a whole line of restaurants serving up fantastic food, always fresh as well as a very good range of seafood. Other fare such as burgers, steaks chicken etc are all available as well as some other local dishes as well. There range of food available means there’s something for everyone.

Any trip to Dieppe for us, isn’t complete for us unless we have “moules frites” when we visit. We both love mussels and fries and it’s also super-healthy. One of the most iron-rich foods you can eat and full of zinc too, if you’ve been feeling a bit under the weather, there is nothing better than a bowl of fresh mussels.

We tend to go for a the simple Moules Marinere with chips but of course there are many different combinations and they are always super fresh around here.

If you have children, don’t worry! Fortunately, every place we’ve ever been has a “menu d’enfant” with options such as grilled chicken and beef burgers and usually rice or chips. There have also always been high-chairs. The French are family-friendly in their restaurants for sure.

Some have outside seating, others open their big shop front windows and it always feels like a very relaxed affair.

18. Le Carre (Dieppe) – Swimming Pool Inside, Outside & Spa

This indoor and connected to the outdoor swimming pool complex really has something for everyone. Outside is a 50 metre heated salt-water pool that is open all year round. You can see part of the bright blue open-air pool in the photo above on Dieppe’s long sea front. It’s connected through a door to two more indoor pools, one has a wave machine that creates a current and has foaming jets. This pool is used for all sorts of Aqua exercises.

There’s another regular smaller pool for general swimming. There are also two splash pools for toddlers and babies with a water fountain and toys to play with. There’s also a tall large inside slide that you can climb up to the top of and zoom down that’s got its own little splash pool at the bottom and is completely separate to the rest of the pools. We liked all of it and have had a lot of fun every time we go there.

If swimming isn’t your thing, then there there is a lovely Spa with massage available, a sauna and a steam room.

Opening hours are longer during school holidays and national holidays. It’s worth checking ahead to make sure it will be open at the time you want to visit.

There is parking close by that is free and we have never had a problem finding a space.

Check out Le Carre here. Click on ‘Horaires‘ to find out opening times.

19. Chateau Musee (Dieppe) – Historic Castle Museum

The Chateau is first thing you see when you enter beach promenade from any part. It is really charming both outside and inside. The climb up to the top is quite hard work but we do think very much worth it. The entrance fee to the Chateau and museum is 4.5 euros. However you can walk up and around the Chateau without paying for the museum. Make sure you walk up and out through the drawbridge (pictured above) to the see the view over Dieppe and the English Channel as it is stunning.

Inside the Chateau museum you will find three rooms of delicately carved ivory, a gallery of 19th Century art depicting local scenes by good painters.. eg Sisley, Pissarro, Coubert. Camilee Sait-Saens’s lounge including piano. A dozen cubist works by Braque. Wonderful views from the many windows.

A word of warning, Chateau is not wheelchair frindly as there are wooden stairs and narrow doors.

20. Estran Cite De La Mer (Dieppe) Sea Museum & Aquarium

This is a really wonderful museum. Quite unassuming on the outside with a few old boats and pieces of nautical equipment set outside, you’d think it was a bit tired and forgotten perhaps.

But inside there are four floors wall to wall of shipping and nautical history, from ship-building, fishing nets and boats to modern day navigation systems this is a treasure trove of interesting physical structures laid our very clearly.

We nearly missed the aquarium as the sign-post to it wasn’t very clear – but we were stunned to discover many large tanks holding very large fish, as well as lobsters and jellyfish.

A kind man also got a type of ray fish to nose-but a plastic ring donut, splashing himself quite badly in the process, to entertain our children. Very nice for them to experience! Highly recommended.

21. Le Memorial du 19 Aout 1942 (Dieppe)

This is a small museum, consisting of only one room, but it tells the story of the tragic failure of 19 August 1942 when 1,197 soldiers, mostly Canadian, died. Set in a beautifully constructed old theater, there are small displays and a film that regularly loops about the Dieppe Raid that lasts for about a hour. It has interviews with veterans and is very moving.

There is parking nearby and the entrance fee is 3 euros. The staff are very friendly, knowledgeable, and seem genuinely interested/passionate about the Dieppe Raid.

22. Dieppe Markets – Every Saturday and Night Markets 4x per Year including Christmas Market (Dieppe)

The Saturday morning market at the Church of St. Jacques is said to host the finest food market in Northern France. Local farmers set up their stalls in the narrow, cobble-stoned streets throughout the central part of the town and it features a wide range of stalls. From clothes and food to haberdashery and things for the home – you can always pick up a bargain.

Stalls with Herbes de Provence, cheeses, handmade soaps and the linens all come highly recommended. It’s well worth a visit to pick up that unique feeling of you only get at a French market! As suggested by a TripAdvisor poster, “Add in a cup of something hot (or alcholic!) and some lunch and you can make a long morning of it and shop French-style!” Great for picking up unusual Christmas presents.

There is also an evening market four times a year for more artisan products and the winter one is a Christmas market. This is run at the Quai Henri IV. You can buy wonderful creations by local artists such as this colourful, cheeful, bright crockery from DieppeVague which would make great Christmas presents for loved ones. I think it’s easily as fun and quirky as Emma Bridgewater!

23. People-Watching at the Cafe Des Tribunaux

When you’re on holiday, it’s nice to take your time and relax… no need to rush around. That’s what holidays are for – resting and soaking up the ambiance of the place you’ve come to visit.

There is no better place to take a break for coffee or lunch than at the centrally placed Cafe Des Tribunaux in Dieppe. With a large amount of outside seating in a central open part of the town, it’s a great place to watch the world go by and contemplate life.

It’s a great sun trap too during the summer and when things cool down there’s the very quaint old-fashioned interior with elegant wooden tables and plush maroon chairs. Look for the open gallery cafe upstairs too which looks down onto the ground floor. All in all a lovely experience.

24. Chapelle Notre Dame de Bonsecours

Not an old church by any stretch but a focal point of Le Pollet district of Dieppe, Perched high up on a cliff, it is visible from across the other side of town and is well worth a visit. The town has had many lost souls that never came back, ie, fishermen and sailors. This church remembers them. Donate a euro or two when you are there, light a candle and think of them, marvel at the model boats inside and then cast your eyes out to town and the views from the cliff tops and celebrate your time on this planet! Wonderful!

25. Parc Floral William Farcy (Offranville)

Parc Floral William Farcy is another large beautiful garden, close to Dieppe and just 5 minutes drive from our house in Varengeville.

There are so many spectacular gardens in this area, it’s somewhat difficult to choose which one to write about. I’ve chosen this one as it’s close to our home and has something for everyone. There’s a lovely walk all through the gardens, a large lake, some small bridges over the water in places and many trees and shrubs. All beautifully kept. There are also benches to sit down on and relax and enjoy the flowers and gardens.

Should you feel thirsty or hungry, there is a small cafe with inside and outside seating and a toilet. Parking is easy. There is an entrance fee but I don’t remember it being too high. Our children really enjoyed this one.

Additionally there are bikes and pedal go-karts to hire by the half-hour if you want to explore further or just do something a bit different. And if that doesn’t take your fancy, there is also an old crazy golf course. It’s seen better days but it’s still possible to have a game. There is also a stables here although I’m not sure about riding though I would think it should be possible. Horse-riding is very popular here and there is another stables in Hautot-Sur-Mer.

This park was a lovely place to visit. Very quiet, very peaceful and almost no one there when we visited, although it was early spring.

On the note of gardens, there are so many more in the area so I’ll just list them here and you can investigate and go further if you wish, whilst staying here. Closest to us are Shamrock in Varengeville, Jardin Agapanthe,  and Jardin Vasterival and of course Monet’s garden in Giverny is about an hour away. An interesting one to see but always very busy!

So I hope this list of the Top 25 Things to See and Do in and Around Dieppe and Varengeville has been helpful and shown you what an incredible place this is to visit.

I hope you enjoy your visit, whether it’s staying at our place or somewhere else and I feel certain you’ll find it a wonderful part of the world.

Bon voyage!

Sarah

So in the Spring this year (2016) we asked our local gardener to put in a few new plants. Two magnolias and two cherry blossoms. Here is the cherry blossom flowering in the front garden.  I’m only now managing to update the website to show what’s been going on at the house over the last few months. We’ve also bought new outside dining tables from Ikea with seating for 12 for the south-facing terrace…

Back to the planting – then we had a purple magnolia planted in the front garden too. You can just see a couple of buds starting with the brilliant purple/pink colour starting to come through.

Magnolias grows incredibly well in this part of Normandy so we are looking forward to a fine looking shrub in the not too distant future.

I just wish we could have been here to see if flowering properly as they are one of my favourite plants.

And finally one of my all time favourites, yes another magnolia, this time a magnolia stellata..

The pictures are a little gloomy, it was a fairly cold March afternoon when I took these but by the evening the sun had come out and the sky was flawless, not a cloud anywhere.

The light here is so beautiful, at any time of year. Here’s a picture from the sitting room of the sunset through the wintery oak trees. Just to remind you that the weather changes frequently here and you see so many colours.